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THE ESSENCE OF CHOCOLATE:  RECIPES FOR BAKING AND COOKING WITH FINE CHOCOLATE
Robert Steinberg
John Scharffenberger
Hyperion
November 2006
1-40130-238-6
Hardback
Nonfiction/Cookbook

 

Robert Steinberg a physician who gave up his practice to pursue other interests after being diagnosed with chronic lymphocytic leukemia and John Scharffenberger a vintner who was looking for a different challenge founded the company Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker.  Their goal was to make great quality chocolate and they succeeded. 

Between the covers of this book you will find over 100 wonderful recipes that are generally easy to use and beautiful photos of the finished product.  These are basically categorized by the degree of chocolate flavor to be found; intensely chocolate, essentially chocolate, and a hint of chocolate.  Recipes are from the Scharffen Berger kitchens, the food writer/collaborator Susie Heller, and top chefs from around the country. 

There is something for every chocolate lover in Molten Cakes, Truffles, and Chocolate Soufflé to Chocolate Chunk Challah, S’mores, and Cocoa Ice Bars to Chocolate Martini, Pumpkin Seed Nib Brittle, and John’s Cocoa Rub for grilling or roasting meat.   

Cacao nibs may be less accessible for some home cooks but as you can see there is great variety for those of us who love to experiment in the kitchen.  John’s Simple Chocolate Sauce came out very well though more liquid was needed to get it to pouring consistency.  A silky chocolate pudding was also popular as was a delightful Chocolate Peanut Butter Gianduja. The latter had a creamy peanut butter and chocolate layer on top of a crushed crumb base that blended comforting flavors in a sophisticated offering. 

The idea of using high quality chocolate in cooking and baking is expounded.  Recipes are specific of what chocolate to use not only by milk, bittersweet or unsweetened but also by 62%, 70%, 82%, and 99% cocoa-solids content.  

You also find the unexpected bonus of the history of how the company came to be.  It is a very personal account and is part of the display of the sheer passion that the authors have for their product.  Readers will be charmed with the trial and error of test batches.  One can hardly imagine chocolate being made in the rather small quantities and limited space that they had. 

The book also gives a basic explanation of how chocolate is made, information on the cacao bean, its treatment and even the future of cacao.  Those with enquiring minds regarding chocolate will thoroughly enjoy the detail that is given to the subject.   

Trivia, history, and lore of this favored flavor are sprinkled through the book like seasoning.   With the delicious recipes, and the other topics as discussed this is a fascinating and gorgeous book to grace a coffee table or cookbook shelf. 

 
March 2007

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